Justine is committed to bringing you make-up products that not only provide vibrant shades with excellent coverage, but also offer additional skincare benefits such as anti-ageing, sun protection, moisturizing and mattifying… It’s color that cares.
Selecting the correct shades and applying make-up correctly can be quite daunting. This guide aims to provide you with guidance.
Preparing your skin correctly before applying make-up will ensure smoother coverage and a fresh look. We recommend a simple three-step process.
First wet your face using warm water to open up the pores and help loosen any surface impurities. Using circular motions, gently massage your facial cleanser over your entire face avoiding the eye area. Rinse thoroughly with warm water and then splash on some cool water to help tighten the pores.
After cleansing, gently sweep toner-soaked cotton wool over your face. This helps to remove the last traces of cleanser and other impurities and also has a tightening effect on the pores.
When skin is well moisturized, make-up blends more smoothly , evenly and easily. It’s also a good idea to use a day cream with SPF protection.
Foundation forms the base upon which you apply the rest of your make-up. It helps to even out and smooth skin tone and texture and, if you’ve chosen the correct foundation, it makes your skin look healthy, natural and smooth. The perfect foundation should make you look like you have perfect skin, as though you’re not wearing foundation at all.
In addition to providing a perfect canvas for the rest of your make-up, Justine foundations have additional skincare benefits such as UV protection, anti-ageing and soothing problem skin.
Selecting the right shade
The most important factor to bear in mind when choosing the right shade is always check the color in natural light (but not in direct sunlight).
Remember to take the color of your neck and chest into consideration when choosing a color for your face. If you have a fair complexion, your neck is probably paler than the rest of your face as it is more hidden from the sun. However, if you have a darker complexion, you may find that the skin on your neck is darker than that on your face.
You also need to take the darkest part of your face into account – perhaps your chin. The only real way to find a perfect match is to try different shades, so you’ll need to experiment.
Cool and warm shades
The underlying tone of all skin colors – and the underlying tone of foundation shades – can be dividend into two groups: cool and warm. Cool foundation shades always have a pinkish undertone while warmer foundations have a yellow undertone. Knowing whether your skin has a cool or warm undertone can be very helpful when picking a foundation shade.
One of the easiest ways to determine whether your skin has a warm or cool undertone is to look at the veins on the inside of your arm, near your wrist. If they look blue through your skin, you have a cool undertone. If they appear green, you have a warm undertone. Remember, though, you must perform this test in natural light.
Another simple way of determining your skin’s undertone is to hold pieces of silver and gold jewelry against your skin. (You could even do this with gold and silver fabric). If you have a cool undertone, your skin will look better and healthier next to the silver. Alternatively, if you have a warm undertone, your skin tone will look much more vibrant next to the gold. Again, this text should be performed in natural light.
How to test shades
Once you’ve chosen two or three shades that you believe may suit your skin, you should apply a band of each shade along your upper jaw line. This is the best place to test shades as it’s usually a mid-point shade between your neck and face.
Wait a few moments for the foundation to dry and then examine the bands in natural light. Your perfect shade will practically disappear on your face and you will barely be able to make out the edges of the band. If the foundation stands out on your skin and the edges of the band are clearly visible, then the shade is not right for you.
Remember, the role of foundation is not to cake on a mask of color. It is to even and smooth out your natural color so that it looks as though you have naturally beautiful skin.
Applying foundation correctly
No matter what type of foundation you’re wearing and whether you apply it with your fingers or a brush, the goal is always to even out skin tone. The same basics apply to all foundation application.
Always start with a cleansed, moisturized face. It’s a good idea to give your moisturizer ten to fifteen minutes to absorb fully before applying foundation, particularly if you’re wearing a mineral powder foundation.
Usually you start applying foundation from the center of the face and work your way out. You should apply the foundation to your T-zone and blend it outwards. The exception to this rule is with mineral powder foundation where you work from the outside of your face towards the nose.
The key to applying any foundation is blending. If you’ve applied and blended your foundation properly, you can create a stunning transformation in your complexion, it still looks like your own skin, only better.
Applying liquid foundation
Start by applying foundation to your forehead and, remember you should always be working from the inside outwards. The move on to your cheeks and finally your chin. Use your fingers to evenly blend the foundation. Make sure that you don’t stop your foundation at the jaw line, but continue to blend it down into the neck area to avoid the appearance of hard, unnatural lines.
Be careful when applying foundation near the hairline as excess product can accumulate there and create an unattractive look which is difficult to correct. Rather end your application just before the hairline and gently blend and smudge the edge.
If you have a fair complexion, make sure that you cover the base and sides of the nose carefully as this area is often quite red and may need slightly more coverage.
You can use a foundation brush or sponge as an alternative to your fingers.
Applying mineral powder foundation
Lightly swirl your brush through the powder then tap off any excess. Working from the outside in, apply the powder using small, circular motions, constantly blending as you work across your skin.
Mineral powder can be layered on so you can customize your level of coverage. It’s best to start off with a light layer and slowly build up the coverage until you’r satisfied that your skin looks smooth and even.
You can also add a touch of concealer to the inner corners of the eyes and to the bridge of your nose to make eyes look brighter and more awake.
While foundation is used to create a smooth, even canvas for the rest of our make-up, concealer is the secret weapon for erasing flaws.
Apply concealer after foundation
If you apply concealer before foundation, it’ll be wiped off as you blend the foundation.
Concealer is really just a concentrated form of foundation so it’s best to use a foundation to cover your skin and then a concealer only those spots where you really need it. In addition, concealer will glide on more smoothly and easily over foundation.
Remember that with concealer, a little goes a long way. The less you use, the more natural you’ll look.
Target specific problem areas
Concealer is perfect if you just want to cover a spot, a broken capillary or red, inflames skin. It’s also great for those awkward-to-reach areas if you don’t feel like applying foundation to your whole face.
Using your ring finger, gently pat concealer on to the trouble spot. Blend by lightly tapping up and down the skin until the area is perfectly blended in.
If you’re using only concealer as a spot base without foundation, make sure you blend it in well and then finish it off with a light dusting of powder.
Brighten up under eyes
Concealer can be used under the eyes to disguise dark circles so that you look well rested and wide awake.
Use your ring finger to dot concealer along the under-eye area, working from the inside out. Use the same tapping technique described above to blend it in well.
You can also add a touch of concealer to the inner corners of the eyes and to the bridge of the nose to make eyes look brighter and more awake.
Powder is used to set foundation and concealer, as well as to prepare skin for blush. It’s the finishing step that allows your skin to look smooth, vibrant and natural.
If you have an oilier skin type and your face tends to get a little shiny, powder also helps to absorb oil so you maintain a matte look.
Some women prefer not to use foundation at all but they can still use a light dusting of powder to give skin an even, glowing finish.
Applying pressed powder
Lightly wipe your compact’s puff over the powder then stroke evenly around your T-zone and any other areas where you want to eliminate shine. For the best application, you should follow the direction in which your facial hair grows.
A soft touch of color on the cheeks is one of the simplest ways to create the fresh glow of youthful vitality. Even if you have only a minute to apply make-up, add a delicate touch of blush to the apples of your cheeks – and a little gloss to your lips – for a hint of color for the day.
Choosing the right blush shade
You’ll need to experiment with colors, but the right shade will make your face come alive.
As a general rule, you should choose colors that are close to your skin tone. A juicy berry shade is great for a darker skin while soft pink peach works well on lighter skin.
Another great trick is to pinch your cheeks to see the color of your natural blush and see if you can match it.
Locate the center of your cheeks by smiling to see where they are most pronounced. Use a blush brush to apply to the center of your cheek and then blend towards your upper cheekbone using gentle, circular motions.
Just remember, when it comes to blush, streaky is out. The goal is a fresh, natural-looking bloom.
As the focal point of your face, your eyes can be the most expressive way of showing off your personality.
Before you begin to apply eye-shadow apply a layer of foundation or primer to the lid to give you a smooth , even surface. This also helps eye-shadow to last longer.
Using just one shade is a simple way of enhancing your eye color. Because you’re not using various shades to highlight, contour or define, it’s quick and easy to create a glamorous look.
Using an eye-shadow brush (or the applicator that comes with Justine’s Glamour Eyes Powder Dip Eyeshadow), sweep a single shade over the lid from the lash line to the crease. To create a soft halo of color, you can also lightly apply a little shadow under your lower lashes.
You don’t want a harsh obvious line – particularly with darker shades – so blend and soften the edges of your shadow using your finger or eye-shadow brush.
For a good daytime look, try a soft application using a more neutral shade. To add more drama, go for a more unexpected color.
Complement your eye color
Eye-shadow can really help to enhance your natural eye color. Try the following shades for different eye colors:
- Green eyes: browns, purples, plum, violet, lavender and eggplant
- Blue eyes: copper, gold and violet
- Brown eyes: purples, greens, bronzes and golds
- Hazel eyes: browns and pinks
Four coordinated shades of eye-shadow in one compact allow you to experiment to achieve maximum impact. You can use Justine’s EndlessColour Design Eye-Shadow Quads to add highlights and low-lights and to create definition and drama. The key is to blend the look. There should never be any hard lines or edges.
For a great look, you should use the right tools. For all-over application and blending, a rounded eye-shadow brush is ideal while a slanted brush is great for contouring. The sponge applicator that comes with the eye-shadow is good for all-over application and especially for adding highlights. You can also use the tip of the sponge applicator to smudge liner or to apply eye-shadow as a liner.
To get the smoothest application, make sure you tap off any excess shadow from your brush.
Step 1: Base
Start by choosing a medium shade to sweep over the lid from the lash line to just above the crease.
Step 2: Contour and shape
Blend the second darkest shade in the outer corner of the eyelid and the crease.
Step 3: Highlight
Dust the lightest shade directly under your eyebrow. You can also use this shade in the inner corner of the eye to brighten up your look.
Step 4: Accent
Finish off the look by blending the darkest shade along your lash line, tapering it towards the outer corner.